Driving The Tail Of The Dragon: A Luxury Stay At Tapoco Lodge

There’s a particular type of freedom that only comes from an open road, a full tank of gas, and the keys to something extraordinary. For us, that road is the Tail of the Dragon, and our trek started at Greenville-Spartanburg International Airport, where BMW had arranged a press loan of their new M5 Touring, a vehicle that’s as much a gentleman’s grand tourer as it is a track weapon disguised in wagon form.

From the moment we slid into the deeply bolstered seats and thumbed the ignition, the buzz of the modern world faded away. The GPS was set for Tapoco Lodge in Robbinsville, North Carolina, but the real destination, for me, was the Tail of the Dragon, just beyond the property’s tree-lined borders. For my wife, Jennifer, it was the lodge itself: firepits by the river, afternoon wine on the deck, and a proper pickleball court in the mountains.

The drive up wound through the kind of small towns that still sell RC Cola and Moon Pies at gas stations. Along backroads that follow rivers, barely updated since Eisenhower’s presidency, the M5 quietly absorbs every twist and turn with effortless precision. Out here, you don’t see many BMWs with factory plates. You do see hand-painted signs for boiled peanuts, family-run barbecue joints, and front porches heavy with rocking chairs. It’s a part of America that feels increasingly rare, and more people need to visit.

As we arrived at Tapoco, the smell of pine and distant rain hit us first. The lodge, built in the 1930s to house hydroelectric workers, has since been reborn as a boutique resort that manages to be both rustic and refined. It’s the kind of place where a river runs beside your room and staff greet you by name. The red brick buildings nestle into the hillside like they’ve always belonged. Jennifer was already planning her afternoon while I was eyeing the M5 and calculating how many runs I could fit in before dinner.

Tapoco has charm in spades: Adirondack chairs by the river, a winding trail up the mountain behind the property, hammocks strung between old-growth trees, and a tavern that makes a mean wood-fired pizza. Jennifer settled into our suite on the third floor, eyeing the oversized couch as a place to curl up with a good book. I, on the other hand, was going to head just up the road to Deals Gap, the unofficial gateway to The Tail of The Dragon, and start driving.

The Tail Of The Dragon: A Legendary Road

If you’ve never driven the Tail of the Dragon, it’s hard to understand what makes 11 miles of asphalt so legendary. On paper, it’s just a road with 318 curves. In practice, it’s a ribbon of perfectly manicured tarmac that snakes along the ridgeline, dipping and diving through switchbacks and sweepers with a cadence that borders on choreography. It’s one of those rare places where driving becomes a kind of moving meditation. I have done the Tail of the Dragon on a motorcycle before, and more than a few times in a number of sports cars, but it would take years to master these curves.

Photo by Killboy

The BMW M5 Touring, with its 717-horsepower V8, was a revelation. This wasn’t just a fast car; it was composed, confident, and completely at home. It never once felt unwieldy, even though it weighs in at 5,456 pounds. In fact, the added weight over the rear axle only seemed to help balance things in tight hairpins. I ran the route into Tennessee and back again, crossing the state line like a kid sneaking out after curfew. By the third run, I’d found my rhythm. Brake. Turn in. Feather the throttle. Smile. Repeat.

Back at the lodge, Jennifer was sipping a glass of wine by the river, recounting her own adventures. She’d discovered a quiet hiking trail, explored the lodge’s gift shop (where she secured a Tapoco Lodge sticker for her bag), and had even walked up to check out the pickleball court and theater that are on property. She’d also scoped out the dining options and secured us a reservation for the patio perched just above the river.

Dinner that night started with the Tapoco Chips, I had the filet while Jennifer had their chicken sandwich, followed by a shared Pizookie. We lingered long after the plates were cleared, listening to the river rush by outside and sipping on drinks. It was the kind of evening you don’t plan, but one you remember. It is the kind of automotive enthusiast destination you won’t forget, but one that doesn’t leave your better half feeling like she’s just tagging along for the ride.

The staff waved us off the next morning like old friends, and as we pointed the M5 back toward the highway, we both agreed: this wasn’t just another road trip. It was one of those rare weekends that felt tailored just for us. We had a long drive ahead to meet some old friends in Charlotte, so we hit the road for a very different kind of driving experience, long stretches of highway, which the M5 is also perfectly suited for. The M5 Touring might just be the ultimate dad wagon, comfortable, spacious, and still a beast when you push the M button.

Photo by Killboy

The Tail of the Dragon is by far one of the most exciting roads you can drive or ride. For those looking to experience driving nirvana without compromising on comfort, Tapoco Lodge and the Tail of the Dragon deliver in equal measure. It’s where horsepower meets hospitality, where you can chase curves all morning and a craft cocktail by sunset. And if you’re lucky, maybe even meet a few other driving enthusiasts along the way.