Michael SatterfieldWhen most Americans think of Nicaragua and El Salvador, the imagery often revolves around headlines from decades past—the Contra arms scandal of the 1980s or the notoriety of the MS-13 gang. These associations have unfairly cast a shadow over two countries that offer far more than their troubled reputations suggest. While caution is warranted, especially for solo travelers in El Salvador, Nicaragua shines as an incredible destination for those seeking culture, adventure, and an affordable tropical escape.
My travels often involve driving, but to truly connect with a place, you have to step out of the driver’s seat and immerse yourself in local life. In Nicaragua, that means hopping onto the vibrantly decorated former school buses known as “chicken buses.” These buses are a quintessential part of daily life, carrying everyone from market vendors to schoolchildren. It’s not uncommon to find yourself pressed shoulder-to-shoulder with locals, offering an unfiltered glimpse into the rhythms of Nicaraguan life.
Leaving Managua, the capital, we set off for Granada, a city steeped in history and charm. Founded in 1524 by Spanish conquistador Francisco Hernández de Córdoba, Granada is one of the oldest colonial cities in the Americas and feels like a slice of Spain transported to Central America. Its classic Spanish architecture, cobblestone streets, and European-style hotels and restaurants create a unique ambiance. Granada is also a hub for expatriates, so don’t be surprised to encounter Americans, Australians, and Europeans over breakfast. During my visit, I struck up a conversation with a retired British couple who’d relocated there five years prior. They spoke glowingly about the friendly locals, relaxed lifestyle, and affordability of their new home.
Our next destination was the island of Ometepe, located in the heart of Lake Nicaragua. To get there, we traveled south to the beach town of San Jorge, where we boarded a ferry loaded with passengers and supplies. The boat itself was a fascinating relic, towing smaller vessels filled with goods destined for the island. On the top deck, I met a young artist from Chicago who was backpacking solo from Panama to the United States. Covered in tattoos of Friedrich Nietzsche quotes, she was eager to converse in English. While her journey sounded both ambitious and perilous, her determination was inspiring.
Ometepe, formed by two towering volcanoes, is a land of black sand beaches, lush greenery, and an unspoiled tranquility that contrasts sharply with the bustling chaos of Managua. Despite the island’s history of volcanic eruptions—27 since the 1800s, with the most recent in 2007—the locals embody a serene resilience. While most of my group opted for relaxation, my friend Orland and I decided to explore. Renting bicycles, we spent hours traversing the island, stumbling upon ancient ruins and a secluded beach with a charming countryside restaurant. It was the kind of hidden gem that makes traveling off the beaten path so rewarding.
After two days on Ometepe, we returned to Managua and boarded a TACA Airlines flight back to Los Angeles. Remarkably, Managua’s small but modern airport felt more welcoming than LAX. Each visit to Nicaragua leaves me with new memories and discoveries, from its rich history to its breathtaking landscapes and warm-hearted people.
As for El Salvador, while this trip didn’t include an extended stay there, it’s a country worth exploring with proper preparation and caution. Both nations have their challenges, but they also possess an undeniable allure for the intrepid traveler willing to look beyond the stereotypes.
Whether you’re drawn to the colonial elegance of Granada, the volcanic beauty of Ometepe, or the vibrant culture of the region as a whole, Nicaragua and El Salvador offer an unforgettable experience for those ready to embrace the unexpected.
