by Michael Satterfield - 12/21/2022
Marfa is a small town in the high desert of West Texas, located in Presidio County. It has a population of around 2,000 people and is known for its art scene, minimalist architecture, and remote location. Marfa was founded in the late 1800s as a railroad water stop and grew into a ranching and farming community.
In the 1970s, artist Donald Judd moved to Marfa and began buying up buildings in the town, turning them into art studios and exhibition spaces. This attracted other artists to the area, and Marfa has since become a destination for art lovers and a hub for contemporary art in West Texas. The town has several examples of minimalist-style buildings, including the famous Prada Marfa, a fake Prada store that was built as an art installation not far from the city.
The nearest city to Marfa is Alpine, about a 30-minute drive up Highway 67, even though it only has around 6,000 people, it is home to Sul Ross State University and a major stop for visitors headed to Big Bend National Park. Despite its remote location, Marfa has a vibrant community and is a popular tourist destination, with a number of galleries, restaurants, and other attractions.
No matter where you are coming from, plan a day for the drive to the remote town, it is a 3-hour drive from El Paso, 7 hours from Austin, 8 from Dallas, and over 9 hours from Houston. If you have a friend with a private jet you can always fly into Marfa Municipal Airport. If you are going to make the trek here is the perfect itinerary to make the most of your trip.
While there have been several new lodging options added in Marfa over the years, the only hotel I ever stay at is The Hotel Paisano, a historic property in the heart of downtown Marfa that has been serving guests since the 1930s. The hotel was home to James Dean and Elizabeth Taylor during the filming of Giant in 1956. It also has a great restaurant so you can get some dinner before turning in after your long drive.
Day 1:
Start the morning at The Sentinel for breakfast and great coffee, and pick up a copy of The Sentinel Newspaper to keep up with what's new in the Big Bend region. The unique restaurant supports independent local journalism with great food and good vibes.
Head out of town west on Highway 90, towards Valentine. Stop and grab a photo of the "Welcome to Marfa" sign. Not too much further down the road is the installation of the Giant House which was erected in 2018 on the site of the original set from the film. Not much further down the road, just past the village of Valentine, you'll find Prada Marfa, a famous art installation featuring a replica of a Prada store in the middle of the desert. Head back to town for lunch, you can't go wrong with Marfa Burrito, which is in a little house on the corner of Waco and Highland.
In the afternoon, take a scenic drive to the Chinati Mountains State Natural Area and hike one of the trails to take in the stunning views of the surrounding landscape.
After you get back from your hike, you might want to just grab a bite at Jett’s Grill at the hotel, the Giant Burger is always a good choice. Enjoy a drink
Once it starts to get dark it is time to head out to the Marfa Lights Viewing Area, where you can see the mysterious Marfa Lights, the unexplained light phenomenon has been observed in the area for decades and is something everyone should experience at least once.
Day 2:
Have breakfast at the hotel, and get a seat on the patio if you can. At 9AM The Chinati Foundation exhibition spaces open, starting at 1 Cavalry Row. The foundation's exhibits are housed on the site of a former military base, Fort D.A. Russell and many works of art are open-air displays. Others require a tour guide so be sure to check tour schedules before going. Full Collection Tours are $30 per person.
For lunch head over to The Water Stop on San Antonio Street, I recommend their rice bowls if you are looking for something a little lighter they have a great selection of salads.
After lunch, take a short drive to the nearby town of Alpine and visit the Museum of the Big Bend, which showcases the natural and cultural history of the Big Bend region.
Finish the day with a sunset drive through the Davis Mountains Scenic Loop, a stunning drive through the mountains with breathtaking views.
For dinner, make sure you have a reservation set for Cochineal, a fixed curated by executive Chef Alexandra Gates, the price per person is $95, but the experience is well worth it.
Day 3:
Grab a coffee at Frama and be sure to get your picture in front of their "Greetings from Marfa" mural. Spend the morning visiting some of Marfa's other art galleries, such as Ballroom Marfa or The Wrong Marfa, which feature contemporary art exhibits.
Check out of the hotel and pick up the charcuterie board you ordered from Para Llevar (they prefer a 48-hour order window), some bread, and a bottle of wine, you can enjoy lunch alfresco today.
Heading north on Highway 17 towards Fort Davis, it's time to take the scenic route. Take TX-118 North towards Davis Mountains State Park. The road winds its way up the mountain and depending on the time of year, you might see snow. There are several picnic areas along this route, Gazebo Park, but the best one, in my opinion, is the scenic overlook that provides a wonderful view of the valley and has a nice shaded picnic table. It is just before you get to the University of Texas McDonald Observatory, which is worth the stop.
Eventually, you will descend from the mountains and end up back at Interstate 10, and likely 4-5 hours of driving. I always try to find a unique hotel to stop at on the way home like the Keystone Star Hotel in Lampasas which first offered rooms to travelers in 1856.
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